I remember the first risotto I ever had. I ordered it at some random restaurant I decided to try on a whim one night in downtown Santa Barbara. It was a long time ago. The place is probably not there anymore. But the risotto I had was so good, so creamy, I compare every risotto I’ve had since to it.
The new Taverna in Laguna Beach, which specializes in risottos, has just four on its menus, including one with wild mushrooms, another with shrimp and prosecco. The cheapest version on the list, the risotto con burrata, is also the most basic: risotto stripped to its foundations. In this dish, more than the others, the grains are as translucent as pearls, suspended in the gravy they helped to create.
There are bits of tomato for acidity, a fleck of oven-crisped prosciutto for saltiness, and a gob of melting burrata cheese for richness. But when you eat it, it’s the creaminess and lusciousness of the rice that bubbles to the top. Paradoxically, it’s also a light dish.
This is the risotto you want to eat during an early-summer weekend brunch on the patio, next to a gurgling fountain and with a view of beach volleyball. Even if you’re not one to eat something so starchy so early in the morning, you should get it above all else, shunning the traditional brunch menu that has a Benedict and French toast among them. If it’s your first risotto, it’ll also be the one that makes you fall in love with the dish. Trust me: You always remember your first risotto…
The List:
62. Pineapple Float at Jollibee
63. Szechuan Fries at Wok N Tandoor
64. Banh Xeo at Quan Mii
65. Chanko Nabe at Torizo
66. Hamshuka from Hummus Bowl
67. The Reuben at A Market
68. Everything Cake from Slice Deli And Cakery
69. Spicy Shrimp And Eggplant from Brio Tuscan Grille
70. Crawfish Mac & Cheese from The Wharf
71. Malasadas from Dough Doughs Hawaiian Cafe
72. Salsas from Salsa Bandolera
73. Chorizo Breakfast Bagel at Spigas Bakery and Cafe
74. Whole Chicken Combo at Falafelo
75. Toothpick Lamb at Sichuan Impression
76. Hainan Chicken Rice at Baos Hog
77. Fruit- and Ice Cream-Topped Waffles at Crave
78. Garlic Shrimp Poke at Costco
79. Chimichurri Fries at Piaggo on Wheels
80. Torta Cubana at Cancun Juice
81. Adobo Bowl at Irenia
82. Garlic Noodles at Krave Asian Fusion
83. Broccolini at SeaSalt WoodFire Grill
84. Spicy Tuna Roll at Yard House
85. Amber Roll at Orange Roll and Sushi
86. Frito Chili Cheeseburger at Burger Parlor
87. Maui Sunrise at The Original Banzai Bowls
88. Meals from The Performance Kitchen
89. Pizza-Sized Quesadilla at Los Sanchez
90. Filipino Brunch at EATS Kitchen And Bar
91. Mexican Chocolate at the Pie Hole
92. Biscuits at James Republic
93. Mushroom Flatbread with Kale and Kumquat Salad at Lemonade
94. Mexican-Style Gelatins from Santa Ana’s Gelatina Goddess
95. Hot Pastrami Caesar Salad at Bruxie
96. Jalapeño Pupusas at Las Cazuelas
97. Meatball Sliders at Fresh Brothers
98. Buffalo Cauliflower at Mead’s Green Door Cafe
99. Raindrop Cake at Sunmerry Bakery
100. Doughrito at Surfin’ Donuts
Before becoming an award-winning restaurant critic for OC Weekly in 2007, Edwin Goei went by the alias “elmomonster” on his blog Monster Munching, in which he once wrote a whole review in haiku.
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