You don't expect much from Peña's Restaurant the first time you visit—saddles for seats, too many portraits of charros and Pancho Villa, this tiny Santa Ana operation seems like a tourist trap worthy of Olvera Street. And the menu also seems Del Taco-bad upon a cursory reading—tacos, burritos, enchiladas . . . snore. But read the fine print. Notice that one of the meats available is cochinita pibil, a style of pork cooked in the Yucatan and about the closest it gets to piggy bliss: fatty, sweet, with a citrus tinge and lurking spices. Only three places in the county prepare cochinita pibil regularly, and Peña's does it best, stuffing it into a massive, crisped flour tortilla alongside pickled red onions. It's big enough to sustain you for a week.
