In Mandarin, it's called wu geng chang wang—”5 a.m. intestine blaze”—referring to a stew set over an alcohol flame that gets started in the wee hours. If you've been looking for a place to get your chitlin on but want something besides the Creole soup of potatoes and the Cajun trinity of onions, bell peppers and celery, then head for this northern Chinese restaurant and order a bowl of pork intestines, tofu, cubes of desiccated blood, Chinese sauerkraut and chiles. It'll arrive on a restaurant-grade Bunsen burner to keep it hot. The first bite is the hardest to take and also the most dangerous: Once you taste its addictive, salty, spicy, savory flavors, you'll scarf the bowl, which will result in—you guessed it—a 5 a.m. intestine blaze.
