Best Fast-Food Indian

No epic buffets or rare dosas at Niki's, a shopping-center dive near where Santa Ana and Tustin merge, just massive piles of rice with your choice of meats, a cup of raita and naan. It keeps the tandoor burning all day, so stick with the meats: juicy, ruddy tandoori chicken; lamb; and even the occasional curry, whipped out within minutes and before you pay. Niki's is everything fast food should be: unpretentious but good; cheap but plentiful; and fast, fast, fast.

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