Restaurants in Orange County and California—the whole U.S., really—would be crippled and worthless if not for the brown people who have arrived in droves during the past four decades. And of all the Latin Americans, the Mexican stands alone in this industry. The Mexican presence in the commercial kitchen has become a vital component and a necessity for every aspect of a productive and sustainable restaurant in the Golden State. They earned this status via a relentless work ethic and an undying spirit that strives for a better future, traits ignored by their home country but that blossom and bear fruits here—with us as the lucky eaters.

Read the full essay on OC's Mexican cooks here.
All images by Eric Cocoletzi.